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Breaking the Base

Every colorist talks about “breaking the base” and few actually know what the term means. To clarify, it means to lift the natural haircolor one level or less; a slight and even barely perceptible amount. So, if the client has level 4 medium brown hair and you break the base, you are lightening her hair to a level 5 light brown or a shade in-between a 4 and a 5.

If your client is at all concerned about having red hair or looking brassy, do not break the base. 99.9% of the time you are going to pull warmth. For brunettes, it’s the dreaded red they don’t want to see, and for blondes it’s that hideous orange or gold undertone that will surface. It may not happen on the day the color is done, but weeks later that hair will be reddish or brassy.

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Keratin Complex Canadian Formaldehyde Ban

keratin Complex was one of the many products tested by the Canadian government last week.  It was also one of the 10 individual products that the Canadian Government concluded did not meet their safety requirements.  The Canadian Government maintains that no more than 0.2% of a product can contain formaldehyde.  In the United States, that amount is 0.1%.  The Canadian Government concluded that the products they put on their banned list contain up to 7% formaldehyde.

If you are a hair stylist that was using any of the products on the list, please be aware that the Government has issued a NO-Sale order on them.  In other words, you may be violating criminal law by using whatever product you have remaining on a client or possibly even yourself.

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Coppola Keratin, Brazilian Blowout, and Others Removed from Canadian Salons

formaldehyde is generally considered to be a highly toxic irritant and has been linked to cancer for quite sometime. After receiving many complaints about symptoms developing throughout Canada, the Canadian government stepped in to diagnose what the root causes was. It quickly became clear that the symptoms were linked to salons and specifically hair smoothing treatments know as keratin Hair Smoothing Treatments.

The professional grade products are generally available in hair salons and typically not available to the public. The symptoms that were commonly developing with these treatments included, but were not limited to, hair loss, watery eyes, respiratory infections, and other symptoms consistent with overexposure to formaldehyde which is known to be a likely cause of cancer.

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KeraGreen Keratin Smoothing Treatment and Formaldehyde

Since May of 2010, Organic Salon Systems has been searching for the ideal keratin smoothing treatment that offered superior performance without the toxic chemicals typically contained in such products.  From the beginning, the process was keenly focused to identify the product best meeting OSS’ four primary selection criteria which are (1) having superior performance without the harmful chemicals; (2) being a completely non-diverted, professional-only product line; (3) containing certified organic ingredients that will provide a benefits to the health of the hair and scalp without interfering with the primary cosmetic purpose of the product; and (4) was made by a company which shares our value and respect for the environment and consistently strives to minimize their overall environmental footprint

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Color Correction

When faced with the challenge of correcting hair color that has gone too dark, proceed with caution.  If the client had previously heavily highlighted hair and then attempted to go back to her natural color on her own, be careful not to over promise on what you can deliver.  Hair like this is extremely porous and it is almost impossible to produce a complete correction in one go on this type of hair.

I strongly urge you to begin at the beginning, so to speak, by doing a wet stretch test.  This is the single most valuable tool we have as hairdressers, and too few of us take the time to use it.  Determine what the hair is lacking and follow it up with the appropriate Organic Care Systems Reconstructor before doing anything else.  

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Things to Consider when Going Blonde

Often clients that are a level 5 light brown, or a level 4 medium brown cannot be lifted successfully with single process color unless the desired result is a very warm, golden coppery blonde. Level 3 dark brown hair should never be exposed to medium or light blonde color unless the desired result is orange hair. High lift color works best on level 6 dark blonde hair, but when using an ammonia free color line like Organic Color Systems the results tend to be slightly warmer.

If the desired end result is a beautiful extra light golden blonde then you can achieve this without pre-lightening and without the use of a powder lightener. You may also use a Hi-Lift color and add half a scoop of bleach to tone down the warmth by boosting the lifting power.

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What is Blonde?

First, let’s talk about what makes hair look like the color we see; blonde, brown, or red.  Natural hair color pigments called eumelanin and phaeomelanin are found in the cortex of the hair which is beneath the cuticle layers.   Natural haircolor that appears to be cool brown or black has eumelanin; the grainy black/brown pigment found in some hair.  When the eumelanin molecules are tightly packed into the cortex the hair appears dark brown or black.  Haircolor that appears to be a cool blonde also has eumelanin but it is diffused throughout the inside of the hair shaft which gives it the appearance of being lighter.

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Eco Chic Discovers Organic Hair Color

Lane Kennedy, San Francisco, eco Chic discovers organic hair color at the Fire Horse Salon with Rebeccah! She is instantly impressed by the complete absence of the foul order of ammonia and scalp irritation. After noting that the color has no ammonia, thioglycolates, sodium Lauryl sulfates, plastics, or parabens. She concludes that the fabulous color leaves her hair healthy and beautiful and that the color lasts much longer!  We support any media outlet that shines light on the dangers of chemical-based salon products.

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Advanced Hair Color Techniques

Today’s hair colorist has to be more than just a stylist who also does color.  The specific creative demands from clients, coupled with the increasing concern over the toxins found in the ingredients of hair color products, has created a heightened demand for specialized skill and knowledge of advanced hair color techniques.  If you’re a salon professional specializing in color, you have already felt the pressure to constantly be improving your skill and training.  This pressure, as well as the opportunity for growth, will no doubt continue in the future.

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7 Steps to Salon Retail Success

1 – Find a range of products that you believe in. It’s essential that you choose products that you truly believe are the best for your clients. Having a line of products free from sulfates, plastics, and preservatives is a great place to start. Products such as the Organic Care Systems range that contain certified organic ingredients are even better.

2 – Location, Location, Location. Where you locate your retail products within the salon is essential and can make all the difference. Ideally, they should be at the front of the salon, near the reception and, if possible, on the right hand side. People are naturally inclined to go to the right. If you are limited for space, consider using your window area for retail with labels clearly visible from outside. You can also use point of sale material and special promotions to draw people through your door.

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