Every colorist talks about “breaking the base” and few actually know what the term means. To clarify, it means to lift the natural haircolor one level or less; a slight and even barely perceptible amount. So, if the client has level 4 medium brown hair and you break the base, you are lightening her hair to a level 5 light brown or a shade in-between a 4 and a 5.
If your client is at all concerned about having red hair or looking brassy, do not break the base. 99.9% of the time you are going to pull warmth. For brunettes, it’s the dreaded red they don’t want to see, and for blondes it’s that hideous orange or gold undertone that will surface. It may not happen on the day the color is done, but weeks later that hair will be reddish or brassy.
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