Salon Hair Diagnostics
Elasticity can be determined by measuring the hair’s ability to stretch then return to its original length without breaking. The best way to measure hair’s elasticity is through the use of the . Good elasticity indicates that the hair is healthy with strong side bonds that hold the hair’s delicate inner fibers in place. Healthy hair should stretch about 50% longer than it’s normal length and then return when wet (about 20% when dry).
Poor elasticity will indicate one of two problems. If the hair breaks when you attempt to stretch it, the hair lacks strength indicating it is in need of protein. In this case, the hair should be treated with Revamp. If the hair stretches without breaking but fails to return to its
Hair texture is determined by the thickness of the individual hair strands and be classified as coarse, medium, or fine. The determination of the hair’s texture will allow you to adjust your processing time as well as determine treatment plans if it is determined that hair needs additional strength. Revamp and Treatment are excellent products to treat hair that requires additional strength.
Effects of Processing
|Fine||Thin||Weak||Most Susceptible to Damage|
|Medium||Average||Strong||Will Process Normally|
|Coarse||Thick||Strongest||Will be Resistent to Processing|
To determine texture, feel a single strand of hair from four different parts of the head including the front hairline, temple, crown, and nape. Your professional experience with hair’s thickness will guide you in comparing the relative diameter of the strands.
Hair density measures the number of individual hair strands on 1 square inch of scalp. It indicates how many
hairs there are on a person’s head. Hair density can be classified as low, medium, or high (also known as thin, medium, or dense). Hair density is different from hair texture so individuals with the same hair
texture can have different densities. Hair density measures the number of hairs where hair texture measures the thickness of the individual hairs.
The average hair density is about 2,200 hairs per 1 square inch. The average head of hair contains about 100,000 individual hair strands. Hair with high density has more hairs per 1 square inch, and hair with low density has fewer hairs per 1 square inch.
Due to genetic relationships, the number of hairs on the head generally varies with the color of the hair. Blonds usually have the highest density, and people with red hair tend to have the lowest. People with dense hair may require more processing than people with low density hair. Also, considering hair density when consulting a client on their color may result in a more natural looking color result.
Strands per Inch
Strands Per Scalp
|Blond||High||2,800||140,000||Slightly More Resistent|
|Red||Low||1,600||80,000||Slightly More Susceptible to Damage|
To measure hair density, grab approximately one square inch of hair from the four different parts of the head including the front hairline, temple, crown, and nape. While you may use the table above along with your client’s hair color as a rough guide, you should use your professional experience as the ultimate guide. Your client’s hair density may vary independently of their hair color. If you find that your client’s hair varies despite their color, you should assess the possibility of varying your processing plans accordingly.
Hair density may vary depending on age, chemical history,
Hair porosity is the ability of the hair to absorb moisture. The degree of porosity is directly related to the condition of the cuticle layer. Healthy hair with a compact cuticle layer is naturally resistant to being penetrated by moisture and is referred to as hydrophobic. Porous hair has a damage, slightly opened, or raised cuticle layer that easily absorbs moisture and is called hydrophilic.
Moisture & Resistence
|Low||Hydrophobic||Tightly Closed||Dry and Resistent|
|High||Hydrophilic||Damaged and Slightly Opened||Easy to Treat but Doesn’t Hold or Grab|
Along with texture and density, porosity may have an impact on processing time. The best way to determine your client’s hair’s porosity is to use the Hair Porosity Test.
Hair that is too dry, indicating a lack of moisture, seems lifeless, brittle, and dull. Hair that is oily, indicating and over abundance of moisture, seems heavy and clumpy. The degree of moisture in the hair is primarily determined by the relative activeness of the sebaceous glands which produce sebum, the hair’s natural moisturizer. However, hair moisture levels can also be effected by improper cleansing, poor product selection, diet, genetics, and environmental pollutants.
When hair is dry it should be treated with Aqua Boost, Aqua Boost Treatment, and Revamp before color. This will add moisture, protein, strength, and soften the cuticle to prepare the hair to accept Organic Color. After the , the hair should be treated with Revamp and Aqua Boost which will add additional protein, strength, and moisture. The client should be sent home with Aqua Boost Shampoo and Conditioner for at home care.
When hair is oily it should be treated with one application of
Generally speaking, the wave pattern of hair is related to the texture of hair. Thicker or more coarse hair tends to have a more wavey pattern presenting an either curly or kinky pattern while straight hair tends to have a more fine to normal texture.
Interestingly, ethnicity is also related to wave pattern. Asian hair tends to present a more straight wave pattern and African American hair often present curly to kinky wave patterns and caucasions tend to generally have straight to wavy hair. However, different kinds of texture and ethnicities can have different wave patterns.