When faced with the challenge of correcting hair color that has gone too dark, proceed with caution. If the client had previously heavily highlighted hair and then attempted to go back to her natural color on her own, be careful not to over promise on what you can deliver. Hair like this is extremely porous and it is almost impossible to produce a complete correction in one go on this type of hair.
I strongly urge you to begin at the beginning, so to speak, by doing a wet stretch test. This is the single most valuable tool we have as hairdressers, and too few of us take the time to use it. Determine what the hair is lacking and follow it up with the appropriate Organic Care Systems Reconstructor before doing anything else. Porous hair can almost always benefit from some Revamp to equalize the porosity and to strengthen the hair. The wet stretch test will tell you definitively which Organic Care shampoo, and reconstructor to use. Using a chelating agent such as Malibu’s Crystal Gel Actives will also help to remove some of the color prior to the correction.
Once you have pre-treated the hair, I would highlight around the face with Naturelite Powder and 3% 10 volume, working in sections and keeping a very close eye on the foils – once it has reached a light warm brown highlight, I would spray Revamp on the hair and gently wipe the Naturlite off of the hair. Spray a bit more Revamp after removing the lightener. Using water swells the hair, while Revamp will stop the action of the lightener and help to strengthen the hair while the rest of the foils come up to the desired level.
Instead of trying to achieve a major change that may result in disaster, inform the client that there it will be a process to return the hair to its original state without further damage to the integrity of the hair. Treatments in between color appointments will help to speed up the recovery process.