Myth: If products are at a Salon by a professional and licensed cosmetologist, they must be safe.

Fact: The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has no authority to require companies to assess ingredients or products for safety. FDA does not review or approve the vast majority of salon products or ingredients before they go on the market. The agency conducts pre-market reviews only for certain color additives and active ingredients in cosmetics classified as over-the-counter drugs.

Myth: The salon and cosmetics industry effectively polices itself, making sure all ingredients meet a strict standard of safety.

Fact: There is no industry recognized national safety panel for Salon products in the United States. In its more than 30-year history, the industry’s safety panel (the Cosmetic Ingredient Review, or CIR) has assessed fewer than 20 percent of cosmetics ingredients and found only a handful of ingredients or chemical groups to be unsafe. Its recommendations are not binding on companies.

Myth: The government prohibits dangerous chemicals in professional salon products, and companies wouldn’t risk using them.

Fact: Cosmetics companies may use any ingredient or raw material, except for color additives and a few prohibited substances (such as vinyl chloride and cow parts), without government review or approval.

• More than 500 products sold in the U.S. contain ingredients banned in cosmetics in Japan, Canada or the European Union.7
• Nearly 100 products contain ingredients considered unsafe by the International Fragrance Association.8
• A wide range of nanomaterials whose safety is in question may be common in personal care products. 9
• 22% of all personal care products may be contaminated with the cancer-causing impurity 1,4-dioxane, including many children’s products. 10,11
• 60% of sunscreens contain the potential hormone disruptor oxybenzone that readily penetrates the skin and contaminates the bodies of 97% of Americans.12,13
• 61% of tested lipstick brands contain residues of lead. 14

Myth: Salon ingredients are applied to the scalp and rarely get into the body. When they do, levels are too low to matter.

Fact: People are exposed by breathing in fumes and absorbing chemicals into pores.  Biomonitoring studies have found cosmetics ingredients – like phthalate plasticizers, paraben preservatives, the pesticide triclosan, synthetic musks, and sunscreens – inside the bodily fluids of men, women, children and even the cord blood of newborn babies.  Many of these chemicals are potential hormone disruptors that may increase cancer risk.  Products commonly contain penetration enhancers to drive ingredients deeper into the hair. Studies find health problems in people exposed to common fragrance and sunscreen ingredients, including elevated risk for sperm damage, feminization of the male reproductive system, and low birth weight in girls.

Myth:  The FDA would promptly recall any product that injures people.

Fact:  The FDA has no authority to require recalls of harmful salon products or cosmetics.  Furthermore, manufacturers are not required to report cosmetics-related injuries to the agency.  The FDA relies on companies to report injuries voluntarily.

Myth: Consumers can read ingredient labels and avoid products with hazardous chemicals.

Fact: Federal law allows companies to leave many chemicals off labels, including nanomaterials, contaminants, and components of fragrance.  Professional salon products are not required to list ingredients by any Federal law in the United States. For those few that do list their ingredients, tests have revealed an average of 14 hidden compounds per formulation, including potential hormone disruptors and diethyl phthalate, a compound linked to sperm damage.

This list of Myths and Facts was derived from and enhanced from The Story of Cosmetics Myths and Facts.  Further reference materials can be found there.

For hair services we had a single process hair color done at the upscale John Masters in Manhattan, N.Y., which also sells its own Organics line of hair products. We had highlights and toning done at Mode Organic Salon in Seattle, which uses Organic Color Systems and Kevin Murphy products. At $150 and $136, respectively, they were in line with mid-to-higher-priced salons in their areas.

Both salons had a more pleasant smell than the typical hair salon. Our John Masters tester, who was pregnant and sensitive to odors, appreciated scents of citrus, vinegar and molasses instead of ammonia. Both shops’ services left our hair feeling healthy rather than fried, so we didn’t feel the need to douse it with conditioner the way we often have to after using conventional hair dyes.

The highlights looked much more natural than others we’ve had in the past. The John Masters stylist warned that the color, which he was careful to describe as “low in chemicals,” might not fully cover our gray hairs, but it did the trick and looks as natural as other salon color we’ve had. The salons told us the color should last as long as conventional treatments and they both still look good after several washings.

Mode owner Jeff Carling says the salon uses a sustainable cleaning service and sends its hair clippings to the nonprofit Matter of Trust, which converts hair scraps to material used in cleaning oil spills. John Masters says it offsets the salon’s energy usage by making wind-power purchases. Another nice touch is a garden with an earth-friendly ambiance where customers can sit while their hair color takes.

Read the entire article here.

Congratulations to the team of Mode Salon!

We have always been concerned about the toxins and dangerous chemicals in professional salon products but we are increasingly becoming concerned about the continual lack of awareness among salon professionals.  As noted in a previous post regarding the apparent false advertising and labeling of L’Oreal’s Inoa hair color line, we are very concerned about that “Big Beauty” companies are perpetuating this problem by Greenwashing their products to take advantage of otherwise well intentioned professionals.

There is nothing that the Food and Drug Administration can legally do about it.

But that may begin to change as two Democratic lawmakers — Reps. Jan Schakowsky from Illinois and Edward Markey from Massachusetts — introduced the Safe Cosmetics Act of 2010 today. If passed, it will be the first meaningful effort to give the FDA the teeth, tools and mandate to protect consumers from harmful products that are used by almost everyone.

Under the current absence of oversight, it’s legal for cosmetics companies to use virtually any ingredient with no pre-market safety assessment.

This has bothered many of FDA’s risk experts and toxicologists, who say they’re eager to have the authority to delve into the litany of potentially hazardous chemicals in these products.

“This law is absolutely needed and the authority it will give FDA is even more crucial now as many manufacturers are using nano-sized chemicals such as titanium dioxide in their cosmetic and health products,” an FDA risk assessor told AOL News at the Institute of Food Technologists annual meeting in Chicago this week.

Some of what the legislation calls for includes:

• Ingredients linked to cancer and birth defects being phased out of personal care products.
• Health-based safety standards for all ingredients in cosmetics that includes protections for children and other vulnerable populations.
• Required listing on product labels of all chemical ingredients in personal care products, including fragrances and contaminants.
• Worker access to information about hazardous chemicals they may encounter in the manufacturing of personal care products.
• Adequate funding and support of the FDA Office of Cosmetics and Colors to pay for this oversight of the cosmetics industry.

Andrew Schneider
Senior Public Health Correspondent
Full Article on AOL News

Over the past year, Britney’s hair has gone through various hair colors, including recently being seen as a brunette just weeks before this photo was taken according to Style List.  Such frequent and involved color treatments using traditional ammoniated color will damage and fry hair.  Add extensions, and frequent intense styling, and even the most well-cared for hair will appear to be over processed and damaged.  Had Britney used Organic Color Systems, she would have been able to change her color frequently, be more fade resistant, and achieve the look she was looking for without continually damaging her hair’s cuticle or cortex and not sacrificing her hair’s integrity.  With the structural integrity of her hair maintained, it would respond favorably to frequent styles, extensions, and the demanding beauty requirements celebrities regularly endure.

In short, by eliminating ammonia and other damaging and dangerous chemicals from her hair coloring process, Britney Spears would be able to achieve the stunning look she needs to continue to entertain us all and not have to sacrifice the structural integrity of her hair, her personal health, or the health of her stylist.  Moreover, her hair would be well prepared to hold up to frequent intense styling as well as extensions or other techniques required to continue to make her look like the beautiful entertainer we have all come to know and love.  Maybe it’s time we send her stylist some samples.

Now, just a few months later, INOA salons are coming to a rude awakening – the INOA line is not ammonia free and is clearly labeled as containing ammonia hydroxide.  Imagine seeing a new client who is a cancer survivor, a chemotherapy patient, or simply allergic to ammonia and then assuring them that the professional hair color product you use is ammonia free.  What could you possibly tell them after their treatment in which you unknowingly applied ammonia hydroxide to their scalp?  Would they sympathize with you if you told them that you bought the marketing hype but failed to read the ingredients label?  Salon professionals are licensed professionals and as such have an obligation and duty of care when dealing with the trust a client places in their hands to provide them with a safe and positive treatment.  It stands to reason that a minimum level of care begins with knowing the chemicals being applied to their scalp.

What is exceptional is that salon professionals everywhere are using this product without reading the ingredients label of the products in the line.  The ingredients label for INOA Post shampoo, recommended for post-color shampoo with INOA’s “no ammonia” line clearly contains ammonia hydroxide as indicated in their ingredients list on the left (simply click the photo for a close-up view).  While one side of the bottle indicates its contents as “Innovative No Ammonia” the other sides lists ammonia hydroxide on its legally required and government regulated ingredients label.

There are two ultraviolet light rays you need to protect yourself against: UVA and UVB. UVA rays, or long-wave rays account for about 95% of the ultraviolet light that hits the Earth’s surface. These rays are the same strength year-round and can pierce glass, clothing, fabric, and much more. The UVA rays go through the epidermis or top layer of the skin and enter the dermis which is composed of collagen and elastin fibers. UVA rays contribute to the breakdown of collagen and elastin which in turn leads to aging of the skin, not to mention it can significantly contribute to skin cancer.

The melanin or pigment in the skin is what is responsible for the tan you get from being out in the sun.  When you get a tan, your body is actually responding to the ultraviolet rays by darkening in order to protect itself from further damage. UVB rays are the main rays responsible for tans, sunburns, and skin reddening. These rays damage the more superficial layer of the skin or epidermis. When the sun is closer to the earth’s surface, we receive more UVB rays. Therefore, in the summer months these rays are much stronger and more plentiful. UVB rays mimic the melanocyte cells to create more melanin which in turn can cause freckles, hyper pigmentation, age spots, and a myriad of other discoloration.  UVB rays are also the main contributor to skin cancer.

So you may be asking, what I can do to protect myself? When we talk about SPF protection, people assume that the SPF number indicates the amount of protection they are receiving. This is not necessarily true. The SPF number is saying how long it will take for the UVB rays to burn or redden the skin when using it.  For example, a person who will normally burn in 20 minutes without protection will be able to be exposed for 300 minutes without burning when using an SPF 15 (Minutes to burn without sunscreen x SPF number). An SPF provides that extra time by blocking a certain percentage of ultraviolet rays. A sunscreen with SPF 50 protects against 98% of UVB rays, a SPF 30 protects against 97% of UVB rays, and a SPF 15 protects against 93% of UVB rays.

It is important that when deciding on a sunscreen you make sure it has high-quality protection for both UVB and UVA rays. Both have very damaging affects for skin and health. Most sunscreens offer good protection from the UVB rays but inadequate protection from UVA.  When purchasing, make sure the sunscreen offers full spectrum protection. These include additional ingredients for UVA protection such as zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, mexoryl, oxybenzone, and avobenzone, to name just a few.

Some people believe that many of the chemical ingredients that protect against UVA rays, such as avobenzone, mexoryl, and oxybenzone, may actually be more harmful than helpful. Therefore, many are turning towards more organic means for protection. If you decide to purchase a more natural sunscreen, be sure to look for one with zinc oxide and titanium dioxide in order to receive adequate UVA protection.

Some other skin protecting measures to keep in mind during the summer include:  Applying sunscreen 30 minutes before heading outside, reapplying every hour, wearing eye protection and hats, buying waterproof/water resistant sunscreen to ensure protection even when sweating or swimming, and making certain you apply to the typically neglected area (ears, feet, neck). Additionally, it is vital to the long term health of your skin to apply sunscreen even if you are not “laying out” to tan. If you follow these rules this summer you can ensure protection for your skin and health while still enjoying the outdoors.

Authored By:  Rachel Levinsky, Licensed Esthetician

In the United States, most hair dyes do not go through the rigorous safety testing that other cosmetic color additives do before hitting store shelves. Many conventional hair dye formulas contain chemicals like ammonia, which irritates the skin and lungs, and p-Phenylenediamine (PPD), which is linked to problems with the immune and nervous systems, and some studies have connected conventional hair dyes to a variety of diffferent cancers.

With raised awareness of the health concerns related to conventional hair dyes, many women are searching for safer alternatives that still provide shiny, glossy, and long-lasting results. Jolene Eyre interviews Sidney Hollwager, a celebrated stylist who uses organic hair dyes at Salon Vagabond at the Aviary in Atlanta, to get the lowdown on organic hair color options.

Palm Harbor, FL – June 23, 2010 – Organic Salon Systems, the leading provider of non-diverted professional natural salon products, offers a healthier and gentler alternative to professional salon products which appeal to the more environmentally, health conscious, and socially responsible salons throughout North America which hold their client’s health in high regard.   Le Salon, located in New York, is one particular upscale boutique salon that has fully committed itself to the holistic quality of their client’s experience by exclusively offering Organic Color Systems products which are free from harsh ingredients traditionally found in professional hair care products such as ammonia, parabens, sodium lauryl sulfates, and thioglycolatesands.

“Le Salon’s ethos is consistent with that of Organic Salon Systems and we have a great deal of respect for Salon’s that show a clear sense of responsibility for the ingredient’s they regularly apply to their client’s scalps” said Scott Mitchell, chief executive officer of Organic Salon Systems.

Le Salon, located at 310 East 44th Street between 1st and 2nd Avenue, has been exclusively using Organic Color Systems for over two year and tailors to a clientele that is more discerning about toxicity and ingredients as well as the overall quality of service. Ashraf, who has over 20 years of international professional salon experience, added “we have completely embraced Organic Color Systems products not only because they contain 100% Certified Organic ingredients but also because of their superior performance and the fact that our client’s love the outcome. Also, as a seasoned salon professional, I have learned that promoting an ammonia free environment leads to fewer health problems for me, my clients, and my staff.”

About Organic Salon Systems:
Organic Salon Systems, headquartered in Palm Harbor Florida, has been serving the professional salon industry since 2003. Organic Salon Systems provides hairdressers with high performance products which maximize the use of gentle, nourishing, organic, and natural ingredients while minimizing the necessity for harsh or damaging chemicals.  Organic Salon Systems is the exclusive marketing and distribution company for Organic Color Systems, which offers a revolutionary full range of professional salon products including our tightly integrated color, curl, care, and connect lines, throughout the United States and Canada.

About Le Salon:
Le Salon is an exclusively organic hair salon dedicated to superior service and personal attention in an intimate and relaxing atmosphere. They specialize in organic color, organic perms, and keratin treatments. Le Salon’s focus is to provide their clients with the amazing benefits of using a certified organic hair care and color system. This organic color system avoids the irritation and chemical fumes of traditional ammonia based hair color products and repairs the damage caused by other chemical processes. The products are enriched with jojoba oil, seaweed, chamomile and sunflower extracts. These organic botanicals clean and protect hair without stripping it of its natural oils in addition to strengthening and moisturizing your scalp and hair. All products are free of ammonia, sodium lauryl sulfate, thioglycolates, and parabens. Appointments can be made by calling (212) 949-6693 or visit lesalonnyc.com for more information.