Organic Salon Systems

As a professional hair dresser you know better then anyone that hair coloring is part art and part science. Below is some relevant hair color information that we feel you will find valuable. For more hair color information feel free to contact us directly. Enjoy!

Human hair is a hard, fibrous substance with a delicate balance of protein and moisture. Unlike skin, hair is not living tissue and therefore does not have the ability to repair itself.

It is in the delicate inner structure of the hair where we find moisture (water) along with the hard and soft protein. On the outside of the hair shaft there are 7 to 11 layers of interlocking scales which are called the cuticle (see microscope photo on the left). These form a protective barrier and hold the structure in place.

Protein levels in healthy hair are around 83%-87%; moisture levels are about 3%. The balance is made up of sugar, salt and trace elements. It is essential that this balance is maintained to keep hair healthy, strong and in good condition.

This is why care must be taken to protect its condition and use the most natural and gentle products that are available, such as the Organic Care Systems range of products. This professional range is specifically formulated to work in conjunction with Organic Color Systems.

It is essential to understand what products are, what is in them, and how they work in order to maintain the good condition of both your hair and scalp. Products that can maintain the natural pH balance should be seriously considered.

The Importance of Restoring the Correct pH Balance After Coloring

The pH scale is a measure of acidity and alkalinity which ranges from 0 to 14 with 7 (pure water) being neutral. The natural pH level of hair and the surface of your skin is between 4.5 and 5.5.

The ideal level for our hair (and skin) is between 4.5 – 5.5. Above 5.5 the hair starts to open and below 4.5 it starts to contract.

To color hair permanently we have to lift the cuticle and allow permanent color into the hair. The only way to do this is to alter the acid-alkaline balance (the pH balance) of the hair.

There are two ways to do this and open the cuticle to allow coloring to take place.

The first is to suspend the hair in a substance such as ammonia. This takes the hair well beyond its normal pH and causes the hair to swell considerably. This is effective for attaching color but has numerous side effects including damage to the hair. (See the photo of hair under the microscope.)

The second, more natural method is to suspend the hair in a substance that acts as a moisturizer. This softens the cuticle and, because it does not take the hair as far from its natural pH, causes it to open rather than swell.

The pH of Organic Color Systems’ colors is 8.5 to 9.2. This is a stable pH level – unlike ammonia-based colors which can go as high as 11+ when you add heat.

Our system does not take the hair as far from the natural pH balance and it is able to close the cuticle down when shampooing and applying conditioner. This gives the hair a natural feel and shine.

Because there is no ammonia or ammonia substitutes there is no damage to the hair and the hair maintains its natural moisture and protein balance.

More About Ammonia

Ammonia not only negatively affects the cuticle of the hair, it also damages an amino acid or protein called tyrosine which is found inside the hair shaft.

Tyrosine is responsible for producing melanin (the natural pigment in the hair shaft). When the Tyrosine is damaged the hair’s ability to hold onto color (the hair’s own natural color or pigments introduced into the hair) is greatly reduced or eliminated altogether.

When you introduce color into the hair shaft without damaging the tyrosine the color will last longer because the color has something to bond to. Without ammonia the results are superior in every way.

Choose the Right Package for Your Salon

Technical Information for Colorists – The Activators

Technical Information for Colorists – The Activators

Activator 20 Vol, or 6%.

Used for same level or darker.

Activator 30 Vol, or 9%.

Used for 1-2 shades of lift.

Activator 40 Vol, or 12%.

Used for 2-3 shades of lift (or with the high lift blondes for 4 shades of lift, i.e 11HA, 11HS, 11HN).

Activator 0 Vol, or 0%.

Used with 20 vol, or 6% to achieve semi or demi results.

The activators contain pharmaceutical grade hydrogen peroxide. This is a much more refined and much gentler way of activating the color. (Many companies use commercial or industrial grade which is more aggressive and can irritate the skin and burn the hair).

Mixing The Color

The normal mixing formula is equal amounts of product to equal amounts of developer.
Example – 1 oz of Color with 1 oz of Activator.

High lift blondes require double (2x) the amount of Activator. Example – 1 oz of high lift color to 2 oz of Activator 40 vol or 12%.

For Resistant grey hair use slightly less Activator to color ratio. Example – 60 ml of color with 50 ml of Activator 20 vol or 6%.

The use of heat with Organic Color Systems.

Because of the gentle nature of Organic Color Systems’ hair color we use gentle heat to raise the cuticle to achieve color penetration of the micro pigments into the hair.

Note: This is a warm to medium heat source (not hot). 100 – 105 degrees Fahrenheit.

Processing Times

Normal processing time is 15 minutes with heat followed by 20-25 minutes without heat = total processing time of 30-35 minutes. The high lift blondes processing time is 15 minutes with heat followed by 30 minutes without heat = total processing time of 45 minutes.

Note: These times are guidelines. With more resistive hair you can leave the colors on longer if required. This can be done without the fear of increasing the damage to the hair because of the absence of ammonia and the stable pH of Organic Color Systems’ hair color.

Naturlite Lightening Powder

An ammonia-free lightening powder for off the scalp lightening. A micro-granular formula that is dust free, has cationic conditioners and a fresh, subtle fragrance.

Naturlite Activators

Naturlite has its own specially formulated cream activators.

Cream Activator 6% = 20 Vol – will lift 1-3 shades.

Cream Activator 9% = 30 Vol – will lift 2-7 shades.

Mixing Instructions For Naturlite

Mix 1 scoop of Naturlite Powder with 2 scoops of Naturlite Cream Activator.

See our questions and Answers page for more information >>> [ Click Here ]

The Color Wheel

Each of the permanent colors in the OCS range is described by a number followed by a letter. The number is called an ICC number and signifies the depth of color. It ranges from the number 1 (the darkest) to 10 (the lightest).

The Natural range of colors 1 – 10.
This range has a blue-violet base to give coverage of white hair in the most natural way possible.

The NN Range of colors 4NN-8NN.
The NN series has been formulated for grey coverage. All of the water has been removed from these colors, leaving a higher concentration of the moisturizing oil base. This makes these colors more effective at softening the cuticle layer of grey hair. Unlike ammoniated NN”s, which usually contain higher levels of ammonia and higher pigment loads, our NN’s contain the same pigment loads as our Natural series. You can use them freely without worrying about end results that are too flat or drab.

Colors 1-8 will cover 100% white hair, whilst only partial coverage is achieved using 9 & 10.

The Ash range of colors 4AH – 10AH.
This range has varying base dependent on depth; 4AH & 5AH are blue/green; 6AH, 7AH, 8AH, & 9AH are blue and 10AH is violet / blue.

Light Extra Ash and Dark Extra Ash.
These colors have been formulated to help drab out warmth. The Light Extra Ash is a level 8 green/blue and the Dark Extra Ash is a level 3 green/blue. These are strong ashes, please consider this when formulating with them.

The Golden range of colors 4GD – 8 GD.
This range of colors has a yellow base to add tones of a golden nature.

The Copper range of colors 4CR- 8CR.
The coppers have a predominance of orange to add the vibrancy and character of pure copper.

The Mahogany range of colors 4MH – 7MH.
The mahoganies are based on violet to add the mahogany and burgundy tones that are truly rich and vibrant.

The Red Copper Range of colors 5RC-7RC.
These colors have a concentrated red/orange base. It was designed to give rich fashion tones.

The Fiery Red range of colors 4FR – 8FR.
True to their name and based on pure red, these colors achieve bright, true red tones that last and last.

The Bright Copper Range of Colors 6BC – 8BC.

This range of colors has fashion base of orange and yellow to produce a bright copper.

The Highlift range of colors 11HN, 11HS, & 11HA.
These colors are designed to give maximum lift on level 7 or lighter.